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Author Topic: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier  (Read 2737 times)

wadesworld

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Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« on: June 10, 2020, 07:00:06 PM »
My brother and his wife are moving from MN out to Bend, OR in early September. I’m thinking about taking about 3 weeks of vacation to help them move and go on a giant road trip out West. I’m looking for suggestions on national parks to visit and trails or spots within those parks that you consider “must sees.”

I’ve done Badlands/Custer but that almost feels like a good distance to travel the first day so maybe we’ll make a stop there.

I have a friend that lives in Ennis, MT so I’d plan to stay with him a few days while trying to get to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Jackson Hole.

From there I’m not sure until out to Bend. In Bend we’ll go to Crater Lake and I’d love to get back to Cannon Beach but we’ll see about that.

Not sure about the return. If I have time for it I’d love to go down to Yosemite, which might mean Lake Tahoe (have been there so no big deal if I don’t get to it again) and then would mean I could do Grand Canyon, Arches, and Rocky Mountains on the way home. I have friends I could stay with in Denver and Salt Lake City.

Or I could go north to Whistler and do Jasper and Banff, which would probably be shorter.

Any thoughts from anyone? Are either of those routes reasonable to do in 3 weeks? Could try to stretch it out over a 4 week period.

Would almost certainly rent a car if I’m going to put that many miles on.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2020, 11:43:26 AM by BLM »
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Warriors4ever

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Re: National Parks
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2020, 09:42:35 PM »
I think that’s a lot to cover in three weeks. I suggest you go over to the Road Trips forum over on TripAdvisor, I am sure you can get lots of suggestions there.
I was in Yellowstone a couple of years ago -it is huge, do not underestimate how long it takes just to drive around the park, but I had forgotten how fabulous Yellowstone is.  The Wyoming forum on TA has some really good volunteers that can give you that specific advice, I continue to read their forum just for fun. . Enis is a more than two hour drive to Old Faithful without traffic, so if you intend to use it as some kind of base, be aware of commute times. And it would be longer to GTNP.

wadesworld

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Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2020, 11:43:12 AM »
Bumping this.  I'm heading out to the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area from 9/13-9/19 and then up to Glacier National Park from 9/20-9/26.  Does anybody have any must see/must do recommendations for these spots?  Any advice on these?

We will be staying northwest of Yellowstone for the first week and then west of West Glacer (Kalispell) for the second week.  I have never been between the Badlands/Black Hills and the PNW before, so any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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naginiF

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2020, 12:20:16 PM »
Bumping this.  I'm heading out to the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area from 9/13-9/19 and then up to Glacier National Park from 9/20-9/26.  Does anybody have any must see/must do recommendations for these spots?  Any advice on these?

We will be staying northwest of Yellowstone for the first week and then west of West Glacer (Kalispell) for the second week.  I have never been between the Badlands/Black Hills and the PNW before, so any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
We did two weeks in Yellowstone/Tetons last year. My advice would be to get off the beaten path - Every super cool thing we saw - geysers, bears, bison, mud pits, moose, waterfalls, wolves etc. came where there were few people. For example - Grand Prismatic? super cool but 100's of folks. Hike 2 miles past it to Fairy Falls, maybe 20 people and no boundaries, another 1/2 mile to Emerald Springs incredible spot with nobody. Lamar Valley is where you'll see the most wildlife, I strongly recommend a) a ranger lead tour - they will know where the wolf packs and grizzlies are and will spot them for you, b) if you hike into the valley (recommended) the black flies are INSANE - wear covering and a ton of spray. My 12 yr old is still traumatized by the memory.

If you have the time Devil's Tower is worth the side trip.

If you are still thinking of doing the southern swing coming back we did Zion/Bryce this year and Arches/Mesa Verde two years ago. Can't go wrong at any of the places but the two 'must do's' are.... Zion: The Narrow's - rent river shoes from the outfitter outside the South entrance and make sure you are on the 1st or 2nd bus in the AM. Arches: Fiery Furnace - you need a pass but it's one of the most unique hiking experiences we've ever had.

Have a great time exploring!

Jockey

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2020, 12:22:01 PM »
Bumping this.  I'm heading out to the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area from 9/13-9/19 and then up to Glacier National Park from 9/20-9/26.  Does anybody have any must see/must do recommendations for these spots?  Any advice on these?

We will be staying northwest of Yellowstone for the first week and then west of West Glacer (Kalispell) for the second week.  I have never been between the Badlands/Black Hills and the PNW before, so any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I did the same thing last year. Went to Glacier 1st week and then headed to Yellowstone/Tetons/Jackson for another week.

A lot depends on who is going. You. You & wife. You, wife and kids. We do a lot of traveling out west (wife and I) and so we are never in a rush. We do a lot of stopping on the way for sightseeing - National Monuments are almost always great. Last year, we did the missile silo sight near the Badlands (museum and missile silo that is only a couple hundred years off the Interstate), Little Big Horn (easy to spend 4 hours or more), Grant-Kohrs Ranch, and a Bison refuge.


Kalispel is the best place to stay for Glacier - about 25 miles from the park - but not a bad drive. We stayed at a MyPlace motel. Reasonably priced and automatically upgraded to a suite at no cost if staying for 3 nights or more. That's important if you have kids and want to save $$$ cooking in. Lots of good restaurants within a mile of the motel, as well. Plan a full day for Going-to-the-Sun Road. Probably about a 50 mile round trip in the park, but you're gonna want to make a lot of stops. My favorite place was Many Glaciers on the east side of the park. If you've ever been in the Alps, it will look very familiar with the large chalet lodge, lake, and mountains.


Two main roads going thru Yellowstone. I prefer the eastern most road. Less crowded (because Old Faithful is on the other one), but lots to see.

The beauty of the Tetons will shock you - especially when coming from the north out of Yellowstone. Lots of great hikes. I'd definitely recommend Jenny Lake. We stayed in Jackson and drove up to the Tetons each day.

Just be ready for any type of weather this time of year.

Jockey

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2020, 12:24:37 PM »
We did two weeks in Yellowstone/Tetons last year. My advice would be to get off the beaten path

Absolutely. That's why having 2 weeks (or more) is so important. You get to enjoy the journey - not just the destination.

MU82

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2020, 12:26:51 PM »
I'm jealous. Have a great trip!
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Uncle Rico

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2020, 12:39:36 PM »
Bumping this.  I'm heading out to the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area from 9/13-9/19 and then up to Glacier National Park from 9/20-9/26.  Does anybody have any must see/must do recommendations for these spots?  Any advice on these?

We will be staying northwest of Yellowstone for the first week and then west of West Glacer (Kalispell) for the second week.  I have never been between the Badlands/Black Hills and the PNW before, so any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

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naginiF

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2020, 01:37:56 PM »
.......... Last year, we did the missile silo sight near the Badlands (museum and missile silo that is only a couple hundred years off the Interstate), .......
We did this missile silo tour a few years ago - 100% worth it. Listen to 'Hardcore History - Destroyer of Worlds' on the drive up to put you in the right mindset.

Jockey

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2020, 02:07:49 PM »
We did this missile silo tour a few years ago - 100% worth it. Listen to 'Hardcore History - Destroyer of Worlds' on the drive up to put you in the right mindset.


The story of the bravery of the Russian officer who refused to follow orders and unleash a nuclear attack on us, after the USSR got a false positive on an attack on them, was stunning. One of the true heroes in the history of mankind.

Did you get a chance to go down inside the underground silo control room? Our trip was kinda last minute and you need to get reservations for that months ahead. But still well worth it even if you don't get that portion of it.

Warriors4ever

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2020, 03:44:15 PM »
I will suggest to you what I suggested to the original question -go over to TripAdvisor and check out the Wyoming travel forum, they have some of the most helpful and knowledgeable regular posters around. They can tell you about road closures ( there is a major closure in YNP now involving Dunraven Pass on the east side of the park), and tips on when to arrive at popular sites, where bears have been spotted, etc.  Hopefully you are aware that there is no inside dining in YNP this year, only take-out, so plan accordingly.
And I think it’s the east side of Glacier is closed completely, as the Native-American tribe in that area ( apologies but I can’t remember which one) closed access to the road to protect their reservation from coronavirus.
It is possible in both locations to have weather closures due to snow in September as well.

naginiF

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2020, 04:44:26 PM »

The story of the bravery of the Russian officer who refused to follow orders and unleash a nuclear attack on us, after the USSR got a false positive on an attack on them, was stunning. One of the true heroes in the history of mankind.

Did you get a chance to go down inside the underground silo control room? Our trip was kinda last minute and you need to get reservations for that months ahead. But still well worth it even if you don't get that portion of it.
We were there off season so got reservations and were able to go into the control center. You could sense the pressure both literally and figuratively. The training, professionalism, and psychological evaluations those that staffed had must've been incredible.

NorthernDancerColt

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2020, 12:37:27 AM »
Bumping this.  I'm heading out to the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area from 9/13-9/19 and then up to Glacier National Park from 9/20-9/26.  Does anybody have any must see/must do recommendations for these spots?  Any advice on these?

We will be staying northwest of Yellowstone for the first week and then west of West Glacer (Kalispell) for the second week.  I have never been between the Badlands/Black Hills and the PNW before, so any advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

If you were making this a ski trip in winter, I would tell you that Grand Targhee is a must see. Much more (and better quality) snow than JacksonHole for a fraction of the price. If they offer offer a summer chairlift, I would stay in Driggs, Idaho (used to be a nice BestWestern and a couple others) and ride the chair. It’s windier on the Western slopes of the Tetons, but you get more of a feeling of the old West. Definitely not nearly as much to do as on the leeward side, but still worth a half-day trip at the least. If you are anywhere near Big Sky Resort, ride the summer lifts there as well. Spectacular views of Yellowstone area, including the ultra-private Yellowstone Club (founded by Ted Turner).
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wadesworld

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2020, 03:59:56 PM »
Realized I never came back to this. Thanks for all the recommendations. The entire Montana area was quite amazing. I would love to get back to Glacier when the East half of it is open. Would also love to get up to Banff as I’ve heard that’s even more impressive. Some awesome hikes and amazing sights. We got lucky with some of the wildlife we got to see.
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Skatastrophy

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2020, 04:16:59 PM »
I'm thinking of spending a month out that way to spend quality time in the park. Any towns that you came across that weren't backwaters? Bozeman is the only thing I can find while poking around Google Maps.

wadesworld

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #15 on: December 08, 2020, 04:41:12 PM »
I'm thinking of spending a month out that way to spend quality time in the park. Any towns that you came across that weren't backwaters? Bozeman is the only thing I can find while poking around Google Maps.

We stayed in Jackson one night which was awesome, but also very expensive. That’s right by Grand Tetons and a good amount of driving to Yellowstone. West Yellowstone had a cool little town with some hotels, but I would imagine that would also be expensive as it’s literally down the block from the west entrance to Yellowstone. I’d guess they have some AirBnB options near Yellowstone’s entrances, and then the two entrances we drove by had a little town near them.

If you go up to Glacier, Kalispell was great. Reasonably priced, plenty of dining and grocery options. We stayed one night in Missoula on the drive between the Yellowstone area and Glacier and I would recommend that. Got a pet friendly hotel for $60. Kind of a cool college town, so good dining options around.
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Skatastrophy

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #16 on: December 08, 2020, 04:58:17 PM »
We stayed in Jackson one night which was awesome, but also very expensive. That’s right by Grand Tetons and a good amount of driving to Yellowstone. West Yellowstone had a cool little town with some hotels, but I would imagine that would also be expensive as it’s literally down the block from the west entrance to Yellowstone. I’d guess they have some AirBnB options near Yellowstone’s entrances, and then the two entrances we drove by had a little town near them.

If you go up to Glacier, Kalispell was great. Reasonably priced, plenty of dining and grocery options. We stayed one night in Missoula on the drive between the Yellowstone area and Glacier and I would recommend that. Got a pet friendly hotel for $60. Kind of a cool college town, so good dining options around.

You know more about Montana than anyone I've ever met. I appreciate the insight!

ZiggysFryBoy

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #17 on: December 08, 2020, 06:26:05 PM »
I'm thinking of spending a month out that way to spend quality time in the park. Any towns that you came across that weren't backwaters? Bozeman is the only thing I can find while poking around Google Maps.

I think that's the point, aina?

wadesworld

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #18 on: December 08, 2020, 06:27:34 PM »
You know more about Montana than anyone I've ever met. I appreciate the insight!

Haha not at all. All I know is from the 2 week trip I took in September, and luckily I got to stay with a friend who lived out there and gave me some solid recommendations for the first week. I couldn’t recommend it any higher. It is beautiful out there.
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Jockey

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Re: Yellowstone/Grand Tetons/Glacier
« Reply #19 on: December 08, 2020, 07:33:48 PM »
We stayed in Jackson one night which was awesome, but also very expensive. That’s right by Grand Tetons and a good amount of driving to Yellowstone. West Yellowstone had a cool little town with some hotels, but I would imagine that would also be expensive as it’s literally down the block from the west entrance to Yellowstone. I’d guess they have some AirBnB options near Yellowstone’s entrances, and then the two entrances we drove by had a little town near them.

If you go up to Glacier, Kalispell was great. Reasonably priced, plenty of dining and grocery options. We stayed one night in Missoula on the drive between the Yellowstone area and Glacier and I would recommend that. Got a pet friendly hotel for $60. Kind of a cool college town, so good dining options around.


Sounds like you did the same trip we did  a year and a half ago - except backwards.

We did Glacier first, then Yellowstone, Tetons and Jackson. You're right that Kalispell is the place to stay for Glacier. Sorry you missed the east side of the park. Many Glaciers on the NE side is  the prettiest place there.