National Park Opinions

[ChitownSpaceForRent]

I do love Mammoth Cave. Been there 2 or 3 times now, there's always something new to do there.

[mikekinsellaMVP]

A tip for oldsters: if you're 62 or older you can get a National Parks pass for $10. It's good for life. The regular pass is $85/yr. It gets you into the parks for free (most were around $30 to get in) and also cuts your camping fee in half.

+1.  Found this out when the Mrs. and I went hiking with my parents over Memorial Day weekend.  It's actually an inter-agency pass, so it's good for any fed land that charges a day use fee; NPS, USFS, BLM, etc.  My old man was so happy that he was done renewing his annual Northwest Forest Pass that he forgave the sweet, apologetic ranger for correctly inferring his age (he turned 62 in March.)

[MU82]

I just got back last week from a 4,600 mile roadtrip to a bunch of national parks. We hit the Badlands, Mt Rushmore, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier. We also went north into Canada to Banff National Park and Lake Louise. My thoughts...

Badlands. Interesting to see, but having seen them, I wouldn't go out of my way to see them again. They're called the Badlands for a reason. Not "pretty". Had dinner in Deadwood. Nice place to hangout for a couple of hours.

Mt Rushmore. Wanting to see this was what prompted the trip. Maybe that raised expectations, but while looking at it, I felt like if you've seen a picture of it you've seen Mt Rushmore. Also didn't like that although it's free to see, parking there (private company) is $11. There may be free options, but when you just pull in you find yourself at a cashier with cars behind you and no escape.

Yellowstone. Beautiful. Huge. Old Faithful. We saw lots of elk, antelope, big horn sheep and hundreds of bison. Also a few bears. Had dinner at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. Pricey, but good. The air was kind of thin and humidity was super low, which made hiking a little difficult. Going down was ok, but coming back up...ugh.

Tetons. A short drive from Yellowstone and well worth it. Snow covered mountains, beautiful scenery.

Glacier. Spectacular! Take a ride up the Going To the Sun road. My favorite part of the whole trip. One breathtaking view after another. Glaciers, valleys, rugged snow covered peaks. I thought my camera was going to overheat. I'm already making plans to go back here.

Lake Louise. Breathtakingly beautiful area. Fantastic scenery. The ski lift is open during the summer to take you up the mountain for fabulous views. We saw 2 grizzlies on the way up. Tip: they charge $32 for the chairlift. For an extra $3 you can have a buffet breakfast, so go early. Saw several moose here. Had a big one one walk out of the brush and pass less than 10 feet from us. Debated whether to run, but he didn't seem fazed by the group of people with cameras.

En route, we also made made stops at Wall Drug and the Devils Tower (Close Encounters). Diversions to break up the long drive.

A tip for oldsters: if you're 62 or older you can get a National Parks pass for $10. It's good for life. The regular pass is $85/yr. It gets you into the parks for free (most were around $30 to get in) and also cuts your camping fee in half.

Outstanding stuff here!

I so agree about Rushmore and the Badlands. The kids liked climbing around at Badlands, but it was nothing special. Rushmore ... SOOOO overrated. I also agree about Lake Louise. Canada has some beautiful areas like this.

Great tip about 62+. I'm not there yet but I will be buying a pass shortly after I turn that age.

[MU82]

If you are talking National Parks, I would also consider Mammoth Cave in Kentucky. They have a lot of great tours, including one where they turn all the lights off and all the participants carry oil lanterns - just like they did in the 19th Century when tours first started. 

If you have the time (and a reservation), the Wild Cave Tour is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  They only take a handful of folks at a time for a 6-hour trip through part of the cave the general public doesn't get to see - a lot of crawling on your belly, wriggling through tight spaces, etc.  It requires some advance planning (you have to have hiking boots, gloves, etc.), but it is so worth it.

Thanks for this about Mammoth, chick. We've passed the signs but never considered going. On your recommendation, I think we'll give it a try next time through if we have time.

Also thanks for your recommendation on the NC side of the Smokies. My wife is having foot surgery in two weeks, so we won't be able to go probably till next spring, but it sounds like a must. I mean, it's less than 3 hours away from us -- better do it before we move again!

[brandx]

Outstanding stuff here!

I so agree about Rushmore and the Badlands. The kids liked climbing around at Badlands, but it was nothing special. Rushmore ... SOOOO overrated.

Exactly. The best view for Rushmore is from an overlook in Custer State Park. Gives a great perspective on size since the view is from a few miles away. Binoculars give an outstanding look and, best of all, you get to avoid the tourists (and the parking fee).

And Custer is one of the finest state parks in the country. There is also a unique cave by it's southern border. No water in the cave makes for a completely different look.

[forgetful]

I just got back last week from a 4,600 mile roadtrip to a bunch of national parks. We hit the Badlands, Mt Rushmore, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier. We also went north into Canada to Banff National Park and Lake Louise. My thoughts...

Badlands. Interesting to see, but having seen them, I wouldn't go out of my way to see them again. They're called the Badlands for a reason. Not "pretty". Had dinner in Deadwood. Nice place to hangout for a couple of hours.

Mt Rushmore. Wanting to see this was what prompted the trip. Maybe that raised expectations, but while looking at it, I felt like if you've seen a picture of it you've seen Mt Rushmore. Also didn't like that although it's free to see, parking there (private company) is $11. There may be free options, but when you just pull in you find yourself at a cashier with cars behind you and no escape.

Yellowstone. Beautiful. Huge. Old Faithful. We saw lots of elk, antelope, big horn sheep and hundreds of bison. Also a few bears. Had dinner at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. Pricey, but good. The air was kind of thin and humidity was super low, which made hiking a little difficult. Going down was ok, but coming back up...ugh.

Tetons. A short drive from Yellowstone and well worth it. Snow covered mountains, beautiful scenery.

Glacier. Spectacular! Take a ride up the Going To the Sun road. My favorite part of the whole trip. One breathtaking view after another. Glaciers, valleys, rugged snow covered peaks. I thought my camera was going to overheat. I'm already making plans to go back here.

Lake Louise. Breathtakingly beautiful area. Fantastic scenery. The ski lift is open during the summer to take you up the mountain for fabulous views. We saw 2 grizzlies on the way up. Tip: they charge $32 for the chairlift. For an extra $3 you can have a buffet breakfast, so go early. Saw several moose here. Had a big one one walk out of the brush and pass less than 10 feet from us. Debated whether to run, but he didn't seem fazed by the group of people with cameras.

En route, we also made made stops at Wall Drug and the Devils Tower (Close Encounters). Diversions to break up the long drive.

A tip for oldsters: if you're 62 or older you can get a National Parks pass for $10. It's good for life. The regular pass is $85/yr. It gets you into the parks for free (most were around $30 to get in) and also cuts your camping fee in half.

I'm so envious of this trip.  When life settles down some more I'll have to do something similar.

[dgies9156]

Two other places you may want to consider:

1) The North Shore of Minnesota -- Pretty rugged, Maine-like coast along Lake Superior north of Duluth. Easy hiking, cycling, hiking and outdoor activities if you like. Isle Royal National Park can be reached from Grand Maraies, MN. Isle Royal is quite a rugged and natural place. Took my Dad up the shore last spring and even the Minnesota State Troopers (in their Crimson Cruisers) are pleasant. Good long-weekend, Labor Day type trip from Milwaukee, Chicago or Minneapolis.

2) Fall Creek Falls State Park -- Near McMinnville, TN off Interstate 24. Tallest waterfall in the east. Not sure how rugged it is anymore but used to be Hillbilly USA country and really off the beaten path. Like everything else in Middle Tennessee, it's probably been developed, has an 18-hole golf course and a Ritz Bubba Hotel.

[dgies9156]

Avoid nearby Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge; they are very crowded.

Unless homage to Dolly Parton is your thing and goofy tourist traps make you go bonkers. If they do, try the Dells. It's a lot closer and less aggravating.

[Spotcheck Billy]

Another very nice trip is circling Lake Superior, we did this years ago camping in the Porcupine Mts. then Sleeping Giant near Thunder Bay and finished at Wawa. You could add a stop at Pictured Rocks on the way back as well.

Some fantastic scenery on the north shore of Superior.

[warriorchick]

Thanks for this about Mammoth, chick. We've passed the signs but never considered going. On your recommendation, I think we'll give it a try next time through if we have time.

Also thanks for your recommendation on the NC side of the Smokies. My wife is having foot surgery in two weeks, so we won't be able to go probably till next spring, but it sounds like a must. I mean, it's less than 3 hours away from us -- better do it before we move again!

My pleasure.  One more bit of advice: Make reservations for the tours before you go. The good ones fill up fast, especially the Wild Cave one.  There is also a pretty nice campground there (very wooded, nice amount of space between sites) if that is your thing.

[martyconlonontherun]

I just got back last week from a 4,600 mile roadtrip to a bunch of national parks. We hit the Badlands, Mt Rushmore, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier. We also went north into Canada to Banff National Park and Lake Louise. My thoughts...

Badlands. Interesting to see, but having seen them, I wouldn't go out of my way to see them again. They're called the Badlands for a reason. Not "pretty". Had dinner in Deadwood. Nice place to hangout for a couple of hours.

Mt Rushmore. Wanting to see this was what prompted the trip. Maybe that raised expectations, but while looking at it, I felt like if you've seen a picture of it you've seen Mt Rushmore. Also didn't like that although it's free to see, parking there (private company) is $11. There may be free options, but when you just pull in you find yourself at a cashier with cars behind you and no escape.

Yellowstone. Beautiful. Huge. Old Faithful. We saw lots of elk, antelope, big horn sheep and hundreds of bison. Also a few bears. Had dinner at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. Pricey, but good. The air was kind of thin and humidity was super low, which made hiking a little difficult. Going down was ok, but coming back up...ugh.

Tetons. A short drive from Yellowstone and well worth it. Snow covered mountains, beautiful scenery.

Glacier. Spectacular! Take a ride up the Going To the Sun road. My favorite part of the whole trip. One breathtaking view after another. Glaciers, valleys, rugged snow covered peaks. I thought my camera was going to overheat. I'm already making plans to go back here.

Lake Louise. Breathtakingly beautiful area. Fantastic scenery. The ski lift is open during the summer to take you up the mountain for fabulous views. We saw 2 grizzlies on the way up. Tip: they charge $32 for the chairlift. For an extra $3 you can have a buffet breakfast, so go early. Saw several moose here. Had a big one one walk out of the brush and pass less than 10 feet from us. Debated whether to run, but he didn't seem fazed by the group of people with cameras.

En route, we also made made stops at Wall Drug and the Devils Tower (Close Encounters). Diversions to break up the long drive.

A tip for oldsters: if you're 62 or older you can get a National Parks pass for $10. It's good for life. The regular pass is $85/yr. It gets you into the parks for free (most were around $30 to get in) and also cuts your camping fee in half.

I was playing around with google maps and noticed I was playing the "for an extra 3 hour drive you could go to this national park" game and couldn't believe there were that many parks. What was your time in the car versus actually outside? Do you think it was worth it or better to find 2 parks and make most of your time there?

[mr.MUskie]

I was playing around with google maps and noticed I was playing the "for an extra 3 hour drive you could go to this national park" game and couldn't believe there were that many parks. What was your time in the car versus actually outside? Do you think it was worth it or better to find 2 parks and make most of your time there?

We did the trip in 10 days. My original plans were to go on a solo trip for a little longer time and play it by ear as to how long to stay in an area. I happened to mention it to a fishing buddy last year and he became obsessed. He called me 3 weeks ago and said, "Lets do this next week." We literally put it together in 2 days. We stayed in a motel in South Dakota the first night, then camped the rest of the trip. My buddy made camping reservations in the national parks, thank God because we wouldn't have gotten in otherwise. This meant we had a driving agenda each day, and didn't have the flexibility I had wanted. We pretty much drove 300-400 miles per day, but since we got an early start each day we arrived at our next stop early enough to see some sights. Coming home from Lake Louise was the hardest part. After a short diversion to British Columbia just to say we went there, we drove 600 miles across Alberta to Regina, Saskatchewan and stayed at a hotel there, then another 600 miles the next day across Manitoba to Park Rapids, MN and stayed at a buddies house, then 400 miles the next day to Wausau to return the rental car. I was kind of sad that we didn't get to spend more time like I had originally planned, but now I'm kind of glad I did it this way. It was kind of a sampler. Now that I've seen the Badlands and Mt Rushmore I can cross them off my list, and 2 days in Yellowstone was enough to see what I wanted. Next time I'll head straight to Glacier and spend 2 or 3 days there, then head to Lake Louise for a few days. I think I'd like to bring a bike (although a biker was mauled by a grizzly in Glacier a couple days after we were there) and maybe my kayak, and next time I wouldn't drive back through southern Canada. The scenery was boring, speed limits were lower than in the US (and I couldnt use my radar detector) and gas was more expensive.

[Benny B]

Benny, you are right about the Smokies IF you stay near Gatlinburg. It is a completely different experience on the Townsend side of the park. Give it a try - you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Another great area is the Finger lakes area of NY. Dozens of wineries and great hiking trails around Ithaca and Watkins Glen.

Sure... if you stay away from the city parts, nature is awesome.  But that can be said about anywhere in the country (well, except Florida and Texas anyway).  But after a day or two in the wild, most of us are going to a steak dinner and/or indoor plumbing w/two-ply toilet paper, and that typically necessitates a visit to the city (touristy) parts.

I absolutely agree with the Finger Lakes, however.  While not a national park, it's the perfect combination of picturesque rural countryside, alcohol and modern convenience without the patronizing subservience to annoying tourists.  Back in the pre-TSA days, my carry-on on the return flight was a single cardboard box with as many bottles of wine that I could stuff into it.

[brandx]

Sure... if you stay away from the city parts, nature is awesome.  But that can be said about anywhere in the country (well, except Florida and Texas anyway).  But after a day or two in the wild, most of us are going to a steak dinner and/or indoor plumbing w/two-ply toilet paper, and that typically necessitates a visit to the city (touristy) parts.

I absolutely agree with the Finger Lakes, however.  While not a national park, it's the perfect combination of picturesque rural countryside, alcohol and modern convenience without the patronizing subservience to annoying tourists.  Back in the pre-TSA days, my carry-on on the return flight was a single cardboard box with as many bottles of wine that I could stuff into it.

We always rent a cabin just outside of Townsend - just a couple miles to the edge of the Smokies. We also do most of our own cooking - we go with another couple and take turns cooking - so we are eating pretty good while there. There's nothing better than hiking 10-12 miles up and down a mountain and then coming back to a hot tub and steak at the cabin.

And, you are spot on about the Finger Lakes area. Alcohol, hiking and not a preponderance of tourists because of the area involved. The State Park at Watkins Glen is one of the most picture-esque of anywhere in the country, including the West.

[forgetful]

We always rent a cabin just outside of Townsend - just a couple miles to the edge of the Smokies. We also do most of our own cooking - we go with another couple and take turns cooking - so we are eating pretty good while there. There's nothing better than hiking 10-12 miles up and down a mountain and then coming back to a hot tub and steak at the cabin.

And, you are spot on about the Finger Lakes area. Alcohol, hiking and not a preponderance of tourists because of the area involved. The State Park at Watkins Glen is one of the most picture-esque of anywhere in the country, including the West.

Brandx, seems like we take very similar vacations. 

[MU82]

My pleasure.  One more bit of advice: Make reservations for the tours before you go. The good ones fill up fast, especially the Wild Cave one.  There is also a pretty nice campground there (very wooded, nice amount of space between sites) if that is your thing.

Thanks for the info. We are, however, past the "camping is fun" stage and much prefer a bed. I'll blame my old wife. It can't be me who's old!

[wadesworld]

Great stuff.  Have definitely learned to turn to Scoop when it comes to travel recommendations.

I think we'll take the traffic issue over Labor Day into consideration and probably head out west.  It sounds like Custer > Badlands, so probably focus more on that but would like to maybe stop at the Badlands the travel day out West.

Will definitely have to look into some of the parks mentioned in MN down the road.  For now I will be getting enough of the watery nature setting in Eagle River in August, so I think the goal was to get to some mountains and see maybe more wildlife.

Glacier is definitely on my bucket list but unfortunately doesn't fit the timeline this time around.  Have heard it's amazing.  Have heard great things about Teton as well.  Would also love to get out to the Arizona/Utah area at some point but don't think that will happen for the next couple years.  Antelope Canyon looks incredible and I have heard some opine that it is better than the Grand Canyon.

Thanks again for all the information.  Big help.

[brandx]

Brandx, seems like we take very similar vacations.

It does. We love getting away from everything. A couple years ago when the gov't shutdown, we were in Townsend. Only the main entrances to the park had security keeping people out, so we used the back entrances and did some of the more used trails that we always avoided. It was great seeing no one for four hours.

Next year we hope to do a similar trip as MU82.

[brandx]

Great stuff.  Have definitely learned to turn to Scoop when it comes to travel recommendations.

I think we'll take the traffic issue over Labor Day into consideration and probably head out west.  It sounds like Custer > Badlands, so probably focus more on that but would like to maybe stop at the Badlands the travel day out West.

Will definitely have to look into some of the parks mentioned in MN down the road.  For now I will be getting enough of the watery nature setting in Eagle River in August, so I think the goal was to get to some mountains and see maybe more wildlife.

Glacier is definitely on my bucket list but unfortunately doesn't fit the timeline this time around.  Have heard it's amazing.  Have heard great things about Teton as well.  Would also love to get out to the Arizona/Utah area at some point but don't think that will happen for the next couple years.  Antelope Canyon looks incredible and I have heard some opine that it is better than the Grand Canyon.

Thanks again for all the information.  Big help.

Wades, let us know how you liked it.

[MU82]

wades, make sure you have Bruce cranked up and ready to go on your streaming device as you approach the Badlands!

[real chili 83]

Enjoy your trip.  In the future when you consider MN, keep in mind Voyagers National Park.  All water and islands. Moose, bear, Eagles, etc.  Weve had bears in our boat while having lunch on Cutover island. You can get super nice houseboats, some come with hot tubs.  Plenty of islands to beach on and spend the night. Also a decent smattering of resorts where you can resupply or stop in for a meal and cocktail.   

I can even mark up a map for you of some darn good fishin holes.

[Coleman]

Enjoy your trip.  In the future when you consider MN, keep in mind Voyagers National Park.  All water and islands. Moose, bear, Eagles, etc.  Weve had bears in our boat while having lunch on Cutover island. You can get super nice houseboats, some come with hot tubs.  Plenty of islands to beach on and spend the night. Also a decent smattering of resorts where you can resupply or stop in for a meal and cocktail.   

I can even mark up a map for you of some darn good fishin holes.

How much does a houseboat typically run? That sounds like an awesome trip

How far is that from the Canadian border?

[real chili 83]

How much does a houseboat typically run? That sounds like an awesome trip

How far is that from the Canadian border?

http://www.voyagaire.com

[jsglow]

Great thread and great advice from Chick.  I am pretty well traveled through the US National Parks and have many thoughts but will try to be very brief with one.

IF someone chooses the South Dakota group I'll add one little hidden gem, especially if you are into military history:

https://www.nps.gov/mimi/index.htm

Entering the command/control bunker and later staring down a silo at the end of the world is a pretty powerful experience.

[jsglow]

Yeah, I was going to mention Mammoth Caves as an honorable mention. These other parks probably offer better views and scenery, but Mammoth Caves is a great weekend trip without a lot of fuss. If you leave super early Friday and miss the Chicago traffic, the trip is easily less than 7 hours. It's close to the highway and has decent facilities. It has a lot of Devil's lake-type views with bluffs over looking a river.

When ever I travel south (either to Nashville or to the gulf coast) I try to break up the drive and stop here for a quick run and hike. They have showers so you can hop back in the car 2 hours later and feel refreshed.


How was the Wild Cave Tour? Was it hard or can anyone who is in decent shape do it? Is it a type of thing you can show up solo, or is it better to have a partner?

Depending on how small your group is, it can be a ball buster.  I was 29 years old and it absolutely kicked my butt (but in a good way).  Our group was chick, me, an army ranger and our guide.  We got to places in the cave that our own guide had discovered and were among the first 50 or so to EVER get there.  But I love stuff like that.  They also do (did?) an 'Intro to Caving' kind of 'lite version' of Wild Cave that I did with my son when I was about 45.  Also extremely cool and demanding with plenty of climbing, crawling, etc.  Both begin with a claustrophobic hole test.  Fail that and you are out for obvious reasons.