MUScoop
MUScoop => The Superbar => Topic started by: Galway Eagle on May 12, 2020, 11:01:14 AM
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Just bought the first house. Looking for recommendations on when to DIY and when to go professional.
Has anyone sat back and said "boy I wish we had a designer or architect" or tried to replace old steel plumbing and wished they got a plumber instead? Other recommendations?
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Just bought the first house. Looking for recommendations on when to DIY and when to go professional.
Has anyone sat back and said "boy I wish we had a designer or architect" or tried to replace old steel plumbing and wished they got a plumber instead? Other recommendations?
IMO, if you can't figure out how to do it from a 15 minute or less YouTube video... get a pro.
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Just took on a re-piping project to get rid of the old galvanized steel pipe in the house.
Quotes came in at 7.5k-9k (+ risk bullet points), but after seeing the word "Uponor Pex" in the quotes I did some research. I have used pex before, but this is newer "expansion" pex - makes plumbing like assembling legos. The Milwaukee tool kit costs $399 alone, but with about $1000 investment, and some sweat equity I'm saving a ton.
Of course, I've also plumbed using copper and sweating pipes - so I'm not exactly afraid of water, or patching holes in the walls. YMMV.
Anyhow - the couple things I don't do (much of...) is drywall (except some patching) or gas piping. Not enough patience for the first, too much risk with the second.
Anyhow, for those doing plumbing, check out Uponor. Cool stuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHuTNqy5Xw
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Ya, tons of stuff on you tube. I suck at mudding drywall. Plumbing and electrical....bring it on.
Lots of skilled trades folks willing to work on the side. if you are willing to be patient, you will pay a ton less. However, it does not come with the guarantee of a contractor. I've built a deck, finished a basement, re-done a bathroom, re-surfaced ceilings and replaced all my windows with career carpenters working on the side. Prices have ranged from $25 - $50 per hour. Saved a ton, with no issues.
Had College Pro paint my house last summer. Did a great job.
Roofing...thank god for insurance and hail storms.
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The one DIY thing I can do really well is write a check. The handwriting is legible. Always has the correct date. Invoice number in the memo line for convenience sake.
Signature is like a work of art.
Hope this helps.
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Furnaces are often easy to fix too. I'm usually attending to the flame sensor every year or two. You can clean it a few times with light sand paper or even a dollar bill. If it's not the flame sensor, next culprit to check is the ignitor. Changing that is like changing a light bulb.
Again, if not your gig, pay someone. If you want to DIY, you'd be surprised how easy some fixes are, and yes, youtube is your friend.
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Just took on a re-piping project to get rid of the old galvanized steel pipe in the house.
Quotes came in at 7.5k-9k (+ risk bullet points), but after seeing the word "Uponor Pex" in the quotes I did some research. I have used pex before, but this is newer "expansion" pex - makes plumbing like assembling legos. The Milwaukee tool kit costs $399 alone, but with about $1000 investment, and some sweat equity I'm saving a ton.
Of course, I've also plumbed using copper and sweating pipes - so I'm not exactly afraid of water, or patching holes in the walls. YMMV.
Anyhow - the couple things I don't do (much of...) is drywall (except some patching) or gas piping. Not enough patience for the first, too much risk with the second.
Anyhow, for those doing plumbing, check out Uponor. Cool stuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHuTNqy5Xw
Fantastic thanks that's actually one of the things I have to do and I've never done any plumbing before. Drywall, painting, floors no problem for me but electric and plumbing have got me concerned.
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1) Figure out how long it will take to finish the job. Next, multiply that by a factor of 8-20.
1a) buy your old lady a day at the spa for your next 3/4th of thr way target date. Spas book far in advance, so you'll be good.
2) find your nearest menards, home depot, Lowe's. Memorize this location. You'll be going there. A lot.
2a) find out what hours the hot dog stand is open.
3) plan a budget.
3a) throw it out the window on your next trip to menards.
4) buy damn near double of what you think you'll need as far as materials. Your amount of fück ups will be more than you can imagine.
5) have beer ready on ice.
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Fantastic thanks that's actually one of the things I have to do and I've never done any plumbing before. Drywall, painting, floors no problem for me but electric and plumbing have got me concerned.
Then I would heartily recommend you do not do them DIY. Those are two systems within the house can either cause tons of damage if done improperly or actually kill you.
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1) Figure out how long it will take to finish the job. Next, multiply that by a factor of 8-20.
1a) buy your old lady a day at the spa for your next 3/4th of thr way target date. Spas book far in advance, so you'll be good.
2) find your nearest menards, home depot, Lowe's. Memorize this location. You'll be going there. A lot.
2a) find out what hours the hot dog stand is open.
3) plan a budget.
3a) throw it out the window on your next trip to menards.
4) buy damn near double of what you think you'll need as far as materials. Your amount of fück ups will be more than you can imagine.
5) have beer ready on ice.
Light beer? dark beer? Ales?
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Then I would heartily recommend you do not do them DIY. Those are two systems within the house can either cause tons of damage if done improperly or actually kill you.
I mean, naturally, I disagree, sort of.
1) You do need to practice a bit to make sure you know what you're doing.
2) You should read national plumbing and electric codes to know what's required
3) You should go through your local permitting process there and have things inspected so that your home is safe, and give the next buyer peace of mind that it's done correctly.
But - re-plumbing an entire house is hard (much easier with Uponor, but still..). Start with a small project that won't shut down all the faucets in your house first to get the hang of it (like a utility sink) - and learn what you thought you knew but didn't!
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Then I would heartily recommend you do not do them DIY. Those are two systems within the house can either cause tons of damage if done improperly or actually kill you.
This. I can and will do simple electrical (replacing outlets or lighting fixtures) and plumbing (replacing toilet valves, seats and washers). Beyond that, I hire someone. I'm generally OK where the consequences of a screw-up are that things don't look as good as I would like, but I don't want to kill myself or flood my home.
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or flood my home.
Last I'll add to this. Given the situation of my (and galway's) house - the existing steel pipes are more likely to flood the house than the new Pex system. Watch the video - if you manage to mess up those plumbing connections, you probably shouldn't be doing ANY home improvement at all.
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Light beer? dark beer? Ales?
Miller lite.
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This. I can and will do simple electrical (replacing outlets or lighting fixtures) and plumbing (replacing toilet valves, seats and washers). Beyond that, I hire someone. I'm generally OK where the consequences of a screw-up are that things don't look as good as I would like, but I don't want to kill myself or flood my home.
Yes, these are examples if things that I will do as well. If you are talking about adding new outlets or anything beyond replacing/fixing a faucet on the plumbing side, I am not going to do it.
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Even if someone is “handy” (I am not), I think your time is worth money. For simple math, let’s say Homeowner X makes $100k a year, works 40 hours a week and takes two weeks vacation, so he makes $50 an hour. If you can get a professional to do it for about that, take it.
There’s also no shame in thinking you’re worth time-and-a-half on weekends.
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Even if someone is “handy” (I am not), I think your time is worth money. For simple math, let’s say Homeowner X makes $100k a year, works 40 hours a week and takes two weeks vacation, so he makes $50 an hour. If you can get a professional to do it for about that, take it.
There’s also no shame in thinking you’re worth time-and-a-half on weekends.
Though if you intend on making gains from selling the home after 3-4 years then your time would be paid to you eventually.
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Last I'll add to this. Given the situation of my (and galway's) house - the existing steel pipes are more likely to flood the house than the new Pex system. Watch the video - if you manage to mess up those plumbing connections, you probably shouldn't be doing ANY home improvement at all.
True story: when we renovated and added on to our house (about 18 years ago) our contractor asked how I felt about Pex. I had no idea what it was. He explained, told me it was as good as copper, a lot easier to work with and cheaper. I told him that I trusted his judgment and experience and if it was OK to use, I didn't object. He used Pex on all the new parts of the house. He did it without inspection. He closed the walls without inspection. Problem: our community didn't allow Pex (at the time anyway...don't know about now). There was a very pissed off building inspector. And home owner. As a result, there was a very unhappy contractor who had to redo an awful lot of plumbing (and some drywall) very late in the game -- at his cost. I suppose the plumber who came in and did that emergency job was pretty happy, though, so there's that.
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This. I can and will do simple electrical (replacing outlets or lighting fixtures) and plumbing (replacing toilet valves, seats and washers). Beyond that, I hire someone. I'm generally OK where the consequences of a screw-up are that things don't look as good as I would like, but I don't want to kill myself or flood my home.
That's where I'm at, too. Thankfully my cousin is a contractor in the area, and he's helped us out with a couple more intricate things.
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He used Pex on all the new parts of the house. He did it without inspection. He closed the walls without inspection. Problem: our community didn't allow Pex (at the time anyway...don't know about now).
Lotsa suck there. I mean, closing the walls before inspection? And a couple years later the pex was probably approved (so...it *could* have been fine). Most states (except Cali) approved pex about 20 years ago - so you were probably really close! I mean, I'm glad it was done "right", but it probably wasn't "wrong' to begin with!
I used the crimp pex stuff before (probably what he used initially). It was decent, but you still had to make sure the crimp was good to make a water-tight connection that would hold up to pressure. This new stuff is a piece of cake compared to even that.
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Eye'm fixin' ta put out a youtube DIY on dentistry, hey?
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Lotsa suck there. I mean, closing the walls before inspection? And a couple years later the pex was probably approved (so...it *could* have been fine). Most states (except Cali) approved pex about 20 years ago - so you were probably really close! I mean, I'm glad it was done "right", but it probably wasn't "wrong' to begin with!
I used the crimp pex stuff before (probably what he used initially). It was decent, but you still had to make sure the crimp was good to make a water-tight connection that would hold up to pressure. This new stuff is a piece of cake compared to even that.
Ya own der stock or is ya a sales rep for this chit?
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Lotsa suck there. I mean, closing the walls before inspection?
Yeah, there were a number of missed inspections and the local building department was very pissed. Suffice to say that they threatened to have him arrested before it was all over — life safety code violations. It all ended up ok, thankfully.
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Eye'm fixin' ta put out a youtube DIY on dentistry, hey?
Can the first video be how to make my own grill?
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I've been making a pretty sweet fixer upper. I had very little experience going in. But just about everything you could ever want has projects of it on YouTube.
From repairing toilets, fridges, air conditioners, to remodeling and taking down walls. There isn't much you cant do if you have YouTube and beer.
I'm currently making a concrete sink with a wood vanity in preperation for my concrete hardtop.
Ps: if it can kill you, use a professional (furnace)
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I've been making a pretty sweet fixer upper. I had very little experience going in. But just about everything you could ever want has projects of it on YouTube.
From repairing toilets, fridges, air conditioners, to remodeling and taking down walls. There isn't much you cant do if you have YouTube and beer.
I'm currently making a concrete sink with a wood vanity in preperation for my concrete hardtop.
Ps: if it can kill you, use a professional (furnace)
Hologram unleash, eh?
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Ya own der stock or is ya a sales rep for this chit?
Hah, neither. Just amazed how easy it's gotten. Seriously, this stuff could (probably should) put plumbers out of business. Sorry to any plumbers out there. Appreciate all the years of hard work :)
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Hah, neither. Just amazed how easy it's gotten. Seriously, this stuff could (probably should) put plumbers out of business. Sorry to any plumbers out there. Appreciate all the years of hard work :)
The plumber’s union still has it banned in Chicago.
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The one DIY thing I can do really well is write a check. The handwriting is legible. Always has the correct date. Invoice number in the memo line for convenience sake.
Signature is like a work of art.
Hope this helps.
Same here, except my signature is completely illegible.
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The plumber’s union still has it banned in Chicago.
Well then, even more important to check with your local building permit office before DIY (and... You be you Chicago, lol)
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The plumber’s union still has it banned in Chicago.
Interesting to know. Does that mean it's against code in Chicago or just that plumbers won't touch it? I'm in Forest Park so it won't effect me till likely the next house but just checking.
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Interesting to know. Does that mean it's against code in Chicago or just that plumbers won't touch it? I'm in Forest Park so it won't effect me till likely the next house but just checking.
Quick search shows that it's not approved by code. So, while it's perfectly safe nationally, and if you were going to stay in your house until you die - it's not a problem. But if you plan on selling, the buyers could raise a stink and either make you replace it, or back out of the deal.
Unfortunately, this is just a power play by the union to justify their high costs, and block the simpler, cheaper solution. There would likely be a way for citizens to get the city to fix code via lawsuits or ballot measures. But that would require a lot of organization, and fighting the union too.
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Chicago unions are proof that unions can go very wrong.
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Chicago unions are proof that unions can go very wrong.
This. They stifle innovation and advancement for the jobs they no longer have the bodies to fill.
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Does anybody have a kitchen without a range hood? Are they really necessary? I'm considering skipping that so I can install the oven and stove in the island I'm building.
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Does anybody have a kitchen without a range hood? Are they really necessary? I'm considering skipping that so I can install the oven and stove in the island I'm building.
Our island has a cooktop with a pop up fan behind it rather than a range hood...similar to image linked below.
https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchens-contemporary-kitchen-phvw-vp~8652200 (https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchens-contemporary-kitchen-phvw-vp~8652200)
We do have to clean the pendant lights above the island a few times a year but the fan works pretty well.
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Our island has a cooktop with a pop up fan behind it rather than a range hood...similar to image linked below.
https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchens-contemporary-kitchen-phvw-vp~8652200 (https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchens-contemporary-kitchen-phvw-vp~8652200)
We do have to clean the pendant lights above the island a few times a year but the fan works pretty well.
Similar situation, we have a very powerful exhaust fan in the ceiling that takes care of the problem.
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Anyone tried an infrared heater for a garage or outbuilding?
Any idea of the real operating costs?
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Even if someone is “handy” (I am not), I think your time is worth money. For simple math, let’s say Homeowner X makes $100k a year, works 40 hours a week and takes two weeks vacation, so he makes $50 an hour. If you can get a professional to do it for about that, take it.
There’s also no shame in thinking you’re worth time-and-a-half on weekends.
You are assuming that the person could do the job as quickly as a professional,including fixing any mistakes. I would double that rate.
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Anyone tried an infrared heater for a garage or outbuilding?
Any idea of the real operating costs?
That is going to be highly dependent on the size of the building, insulation etc.
Are you going to run it 24/7 in the winter or just when you're in the building?
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For all your heating needs, my in-laws have operated http://www.heatinghelp.com for almost 25 years. Very active message board, find a contractor, and if you are inclined some great books on home heating.
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Anybody raised collar ties on their home to finish an attic?
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Does anybody have a kitchen without a range hood? Are they really necessary? I'm considering skipping that so I can install the oven and stove in the island I'm building.
Plenty of people don't. I had a couple of apartments without them. They aren't necessary but are very nice to have.
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That is going to be highly dependent on the size of the building, insulation etc.
Are you going to run it 24/7 in the winter or just when you're in the building?
I plan to use it 24/7 in the colder months just to keep the garage around +5C. Colder months around here are -20C to -40C and the garage has very little insulation. Basically I want to not freeze if working in there and I want the cars to start.
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I plan to use it 24/7 in the colder months just to keep the garage around +5C. Colder months around here are -20C to -40C and the garage has very little insulation. Basically I want to not freeze if working in there and I want the cars to start.
You'll have to insulate the garage if you want to run that thing 24/7
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I plan to use it 24/7 in the colder months just to keep the garage around +5C. Colder months around here are -20C to -40C and the garage has very little insulation. Basically I want to not freeze if working in there and I want the cars to start.
Where are you that your temps are in Celsius?
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Where are you that your temps are in Celsius?
Temps are in Celsius pretty much everywhere... there are only seven countries left that use F. Having lived outside the USA for 25 years, I now think in metric, except for horsepower and psi.
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Temps are in Celsius pretty much everywhere... there are only seven countries left that use F. Having lived outside the USA for 25 years, I now think in metric, except for horsepower and psi.
Merica. We use farenheit and inches.
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(https://66.media.tumblr.com/36d31ebcc8f5c20a896117a23d9b614f/tumblr_nokgwb3Ckx1rwaui9o1_540.jpg)
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Finished a paver patio with built in fire pit today. Elected to not mortar or liquid nail the stones for the pit in case any crack from heat. Does anyone have experience with this? Will they shift in a storm or is setting them in unnecessary
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Finished a paver patio with built in fire pit today. Elected to not mortar or liquid nail the stones for the pit in case any crack from heat. Does anyone have experience with this? Will they shift in a storm or is setting them in unnecessary
I set the blocks. After time, slight nudges, bumps from Power Wheels, wind, anything gets one block slightly off. Then another is slightly off. Then it doesn’t look as good as when you finished it.
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My criteria for DIY.... if u even have to think about DIY u need to find urself a better paying job!!!
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My criteria for DIY.... if u even have to think about DIY u need to find urself a better paying job!!!
I guess that's a friendly way to shame people. Maybe it's a midwest faux uppity thing "oh, you mow your own lawn - you must be poor!" I also know my job pays better than most but
1) I was raised in a family where you should know how to fix things yourself - and you're lazy if you can't figure out how to fix your own toilet
2) I'm a natural saver and cheap ass
3) I generally enjoy it. Manual labor is simple to me, and a chance to clear my mind from programming.
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I guess that's a friendly way to shame people. Maybe it's a midwest faux uppity thing "oh, you mow your own lawn - you must be poor!" I also know my job pays better than most but
1) I was raised in a family where you should know how to fix things yourself - and you're lazy if you can't figure out how to fix your own toilet
2) I'm a natural saver and cheap ass
3) I generally enjoy it. Manual labor is simple to me, and a chance to clear my mind from programming.
+1
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I'm one of only a few that uses a push mower in my neighborhood. Most have a rider or a service. It takes me an hour so I'm good with that. I get a walk and I save money.
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I'm one of only a few that uses a push mower in my neighborhood. Most have a rider or a service. It takes me an hour so I'm good with that. I get a walk and I save money.
This is something I did not consider when I bought the place gotta go get one.
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This is something I did not consider when I bought the place gotta go get one.
Whatcha looking at?
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Whatcha looking at?
Depending on the size of your yard, you can look into an electric option. Our yard isn’t that big so can easily cut a few times on a full charge.
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Depending on the size of your yard, you can look into an electric option. Our yard isn’t that big so can easily cut a few times on a full charge.
Yeah and see if you can swap the same battery for a trimmer, blower, etc.
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I know for a fact that an new EGO mower with 5AH battery can mow a 1/4 acre lot twice!
I've since added the brushless EGO string trimmer and hedge trimmer. I swear the hedge trimmer uses almost no battery. 2.5 AH battery still showed full after about 20 min of trimming.
As for blower, I'm not parting with my Stihl dino juice drinker. At idle it blows about as much as an electric. Full throttle is like a hurricane.
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I picked up the Milwaukee trimmer, because it came with an edger attachment. I’ve got concrete ribbons down my driveway and I want that grass to be crispy looking at the concrete.
Super impressed with the edger and the trimmer. I gave my trusty Echo to my father. Order the pole saw attachment, super badass. Leaf blower may be next...
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Whatcha looking at?
Honestly nothing large enough to warrant anything fancy. I've never mowed before so I'm trying to decide between a really old school non electric non gas mower vs a cheap motorized one.
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Honestly nothing large enough to warrant anything fancy. I've never mowed before so I'm trying to decide between a really old school non electric non gas mower vs a cheap motorized one.
How much yard to cut?
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How much yard to cut?
Oh my bad. Roughly 33 x 18 in back 33 x 15 in front including the patch the town owns. Some walkway in there and bushes but those are the survey measurements minus my new fire pit and patio
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I know for a fact that an new EGO mower with 5AH battery can mow a 1/4 acre lot twice!
I've since added the brushless EGO string trimmer and hedge trimmer. I swear the hedge trimmer uses almost no battery. 2.5 AH battery still showed full after about 20 min of trimming.
As for blower, I'm not parting with my Stihl dino juice drinker. At idle it blows about as much as an electric. Full throttle is like a hurricane.
Major negative impact to your cylinder index.
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Oh my bad. Roughly 33 x 18 in back 33 x 15 in front including the patch the town owns. Some walkway in there and bushes but those are the survey measurements minus my new fire pit and patio
Yeah without any hills, you can get that done quickly with even a old fashioned non motor. My grandfather never had a power motor and his yard was bigger than yours.
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Yeah without any hills, you can get that done quickly with even a old fashioned non motor. My grandfather never had a power motor and his yard was bigger than yours.
Nice thanks. Hoping they come out with a mower version of a roomba vacuum
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I don't have a lot to cut, so I didn't want to spend a ton. Got a SunJoe battery mower for $170 and it's worked great so far.
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Nice thanks. Hoping they come out with a mower version of a roomba vacuum
They have those but they aren't cheap.
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They have those but they aren't cheap.
Really? Hilarious, I was just joking around
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Really? Hilarious, I was just joking around
Yeah, know a guy with one. It doesn’t produce great results.
Battery operated or reel mower in your situation. I’d go reel, but you’ll be cutting a fair amount of days.
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Really? Hilarious, I was just joking around
It requires GPS not just to know it's boundaries but so you can track it down after your neighbor picks it up and walks off with it, lo-jack I guess.
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Nice thanks. Hoping they come out with a mower version of a roomba vacuum
Those have been around for thousands of years. They are called sheep.
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Those have been around for thousands of years. They are called sheep.
I'll lobby for the village to allow them at the next virtual town hall
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Nice thanks. Hoping they come out with a mower version of a roomba vacuum
There are versions of this in the market - particularly in Europe (Husqvaarna). It is actually quite complex to program for US sized yards. Right now more novelty here then practical.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-Automower-430XH-Robotic-Lawn-Mower-with-with-GPS-Assisted-Navigation-Navigation-1-2-Acre-to-1-Acre/1000880462?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_-239-_-soselecmowers-_-1000880462-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI56Lep9aJ6gIVCkqGCh07Jw2xEAQYASABEgISSfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-Automower-430XH-Robotic-Lawn-Mower-with-with-GPS-Assisted-Navigation-Navigation-1-2-Acre-to-1-Acre/1000880462?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_-239-_-soselecmowers-_-1000880462-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI56Lep9aJ6gIVCkqGCh07Jw2xEAQYASABEgISSfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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I picked up the Milwaukee trimmer, because it came with an edger attachment. I’ve got concrete ribbons down my driveway and I want that grass to be crispy looking at the concrete.
Super impressed with the edger and the trimmer. I gave my trusty Echo to my father. Order the pole saw attachment, super badass. Leaf blower may be next...
it's fathers day on Sunday PTM, gift the old man your new trimmer
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I'll lobby for the village to allow them at the next virtual town hall
Ah, a true Welshman I see.
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I guess that's a friendly way to shame people. Maybe it's a midwest faux uppity thing "oh, you mow your own lawn - you must be poor!" I also know my job pays better than most but
1) I was raised in a family where you should know how to fix things yourself - and you're lazy if you can't figure out how to fix your own toilet
2) I'm a natural saver and cheap ass
3) I generally enjoy it. Manual labor is simple to me, and a chance to clear my mind from programming.
4) There's a huge overlap people with good jobs and those with the intellectual curiosity to DIY
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4) There's a huge overlap people with good jobs and those with the intellectual curiosity to DIY
For me, if I know its going to require a lot of blood, sweat, and tears and I can't learn how to do it in an hour from videos online... then I'm calling an expert.
Also, I don't mess with electricity outside of replacing a light fixture.
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it's fathers day on Sunday PTM, gift the old man your new trimmer
And break the tradition of two cases of beer every Father’s Day?
That Echo is as good as new. Rebuilt carb, starts on one pull and has the upgraded easy feed head. It’s a Rolls Royce.
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Thinking of building a bar. Anyone done this? Wouldn't add sink. But probably would convert my mini fridge into a kegerator (which if anyone has done I'd also appreciate tips)
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Thinking of building a bar. Anyone done this? Wouldn't add sink. But probably would convert my mini fridge into a kegerator (which if anyone has done I'd also appreciate tips)
My father is in the process of building us one right now. Taking him forever... but the result on the back bar area is... nothing short of amazing. Leaded stained glass, black walnut with cherry accents... gorgeous.
Next section will have a sink, and then the front bar with a couple of minifridges, and my kegerator in the center. Can't wait for it to be finished, but I'm sure glad I'm not the one creating it.
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Thinking of building a bar. Anyone done this? Wouldn't add sink. But probably would convert my mini fridge into a kegerator (which if anyone has done I'd also appreciate tips)
Currently making a concrete bar top.
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I'm guessing these people don't want DIY to fix this problem in the house they were just moving into.
Person rescued after falling through floor, into deep well inside historic Guilford home
https://www.wtnh.com/news/connecticut/new-haven/person-rescued-after-falling-through-floor-into-deep-well-inside-historic-guilford-home/
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Water tank just went. Anybody want to chime in on whether to go tankless or stick with a classic one?
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Water tank just went. Anybody want to chime in on whether to go tankless or stick with a classic one?
Depends on how many bathrooms you have. Tankless requires one for each, IIRC.
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Depends on how many bathrooms you have. Tankless requires one for each, IIRC.
Damn really? I have two full and am planning on adding a third when I convert the attic to a proper 2nd floor. No chance I'm dropping the $$ for three tankless heaters.
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Depends on how many bathrooms you have. Tankless requires one for each, IIRC.
Not true at all - as least for gas. They're rated by how many gallons per minute they can heat (from a base temp of 40f I think). I know of 4br/4ba houses with a single one in the absement.
I paid to have a rinnai put in a small (1br 1ba) house back in 2005 - still going strong and endless hot water is awesome.
They do make smaller electric units that can go under each sink - which is probably what you've seen.
Edit: though in my current house I've got an electric tank water heater - and the new electric heat pump hybrid tank heaters are basically as efficient (annual cost wise) as tankless. So, I'm with all local promotions to remove inefficient water heaters I'm having one installed next week for only $800 (!!!), save a couple hundred in electric every year, and then I'll get a $300 federal tax credit for doing it. w00t!
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Not true at all - as least for gas. They're rated by how many gallons per minute they can heat (from a base temp of 40f I think). I know of 4br/4ba houses with a single one in the absement.
I paid to have a rinnai put in a small (1br 1ba) house back in 2005 - still going strong and endless hot water is awesome.
They do make smaller electric units that can go under each sink - which is probably what you've seen.
Edit: though in my current house I've got an electric tank water heater - and the new electric heat pump hybrid tank heaters are basically as efficient (annual cost wise) as tankless. So, I'm with all local promotions to remove inefficient water heaters I'm having one installed next week for only $800 (!!!), save a couple hundred in electric every year, and then I'll get a $300 federal tax credit for doing it. w00t!
(https://media1.giphy.com/media/83QtfwKWdmSEo/giphy.gif)
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Tankless is the way. Worth it.
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I'm in the market for a new water heater too .. mine is 16 years old and I figured I should do some prevent defense.
I decided against tankless because of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRUgFmBaSCM
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This is a stupid question, but .. who installs water heaters?
I remember doing this 16 years ago, and I used the yellow pages (really) and looked up Water Heater Installation.
Is it just .. call up any plumber?
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This is a stupid question, but .. who installs water heaters?
I remember doing this 16 years ago, and I used the yellow pages (really) and looked up Water Heater Installation.
Is it just .. call up any plumber?
Yep, any plumber will do.
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This is a stupid question, but .. who installs water heaters?
I remember doing this 16 years ago, and I used the yellow pages (really) and looked up Water Heater Installation.
Is it just .. call up any plumber?
Some HVAC guys do them and may be cheaper than plumbers.
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Yep, any plumber will do.
Yup, and depending on the connections you've got to your current one, even a hanyman might do it (if you already have a flex gas line and "modern" hot/cold hoses). I'd call around to a few plumbers - ideally they have a set installation price (say $300) and they'll either sell you a water heater or you can get one from home depot and they'll install it. Just make sure they haul away the old one!
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After months of waiting for wood prices to finally go down I bit the bullet and bought 25 Guage steel.
About 3.62 for an 8 footer so not to bad.
Overall spent 1000 on drywall, metal studs, track, and insulation. Just laid out the top and bottom track throughout the basement.
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Just finished removing a load bearing wall in my basement and replaced with three 16’ LVL beams. Took a good bit longer than I had figured ahead of time to fully demo old wall but overall it was not that complicated of a process. I did hire a structural engineer to come by, look at the wall and provide in writing exactly what was needed.
Basement is now one extremely large room. Will make an excellent TV room with a large bar.
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Just finished removing a load bearing wall in my basement and replaced with three 16’ LVL beams. Took a good bit longer than I had figured ahead of time to fully demo old wall but overall it was not that complicated of a process. I did hire a structural engineer to come by, look at the wall and provide in writing exactly what was needed.
Basement is now one extremely large room. Will make an excellent TV room with a large bar.
I've got 5 metal poles that run through the middle of the basement that are the only blight on my design. Thought of doing much the same.
How much did it end up being overall?
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The engineer charged me $450 for the site visit and instructions. The beams were ~$400 delivered from Lowe’s. Lumber for temporary wall was probably $200 and will be repurposed for other framing. Other supplies like joist hangers and post bases and caps were another $100 or so.
This wall was only loaded on one side so it was much more straightforward than a wall loaded on both sides.
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Would you rather have something that's very likely asbestos tested and removed or better to be ignorant, remove it yourself saving thousands and have the mindset that it's a one time job so maybe you don't get mesothelioma?
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Would you rather have something that's very likely asbestos tested and removed or better to be ignorant, remove it yourself saving thousands and have the mindset that it's a one time job so maybe you don't get mesothelioma?
This isn't a serious question, right?
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This isn't a serious question, right?
Somewhat. I can't afford abatement as I've got a wedding to pay for in a year, loans, and a mortgage. I have a N100 respirator so it's not like I'm sucking in all the fibers but since I started taking up the tiles before stumbling onto an article saying that black tar like tile adhesives in old houses generally contain asbestos I'm trying to decide my next course of action.
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Somewhat. I can't afford abatement as I've got a wedding to pay for in a year, loans, and a mortgage. I have a N100 respirator so it's not like I'm sucking in all the fibers but since I started taking up the tiles before stumbling onto an article saying that black tar like tile adhesives in old houses generally contain asbestos I'm trying to decide my next course of action.
Well, that adhesive is hard to remove...I know. regardless of doing it yourself or hiring someone, carefully remove some, and take a sample to a lab to be certain, should cost under $100 for analysis. If you decide to do it yourself, seal off the area as best you can, wear your respirator, keep the surface damp to reduce dust, and dispose of it properly. Most states allow homeowners to do their own remediation and take the waste to an appropriate facility as long as you package it properly (usually 2x 6mil bags).
But the lab is the key, I recently ripped out some 1930s plaster & surfacing, but did the lab test first - no asbestos! woohoo! I still wore my mask - always good to avoid fine particles in the lungs.
I'm amazed at how scared the government has made people of asbestos. Most people aren't aware it's still legal to use in the US! "The United States is one of the few major industrialized nations without an asbestos ban in place. It continues to be used in gaskets, friction products, roofing materials, fireproofing materials and other products that are used every day." It's not some alien virus, just remove it (or cover it!) with care.
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Well, that adhesive is hard to remove...I know. regardless of doing it yourself or hiring someone, carefully remove some, and take a sample to a lab to be certain, should cost under $100 for analysis. If you decide to do it yourself, seal off the area as best you can, wear your respirator, keep the surface damp to reduce dust, and dispose of it properly. Most states allow homeowners to do their own remediation and take the waste to an appropriate facility as long as you package it properly (usually 2x 6mil bags).
But the lab is the key, I recently ripped out some 1930s plaster & surfacing, but did the lab test first - no asbestos! woohoo! I still wore my mask - always good to avoid fine particles in the lungs.
I'm amazed at how scared the government has made people of asbestos. Most people aren't aware it's still legal to use in the US! "The United States is one of the few major industrialized nations without an asbestos ban in place. It continues to be used in gaskets, friction products, roofing materials, fireproofing materials and other products that are used every day." It's not some alien virus, just remove it (or cover it!) with care.
Thanks for the advice. That seems like a good coat effective course of action.
As far as difficulty removing the adhesive so far using boiling water on a rag has been decent at getting it up. What have you used? I read mineral spirits but that's some rough smell to put around the kitchen
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Thanks for the advice. That seems like a good coat effective course of action.
As far as difficulty removing the adhesive so far using boiling water on a rag has been decent at getting it up. What have you used? I read mineral spirits but that's some rough smell to put around the kitchen
Well, mine had original wood flooring under it, so I hired a guy (not a remediator) willing to sand it down (into a bag) to be able to refinish the floor. I just had to dispose of the sanded waste. Fair deal. it was about 125 sq ft worth.
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Well, mine had original wood flooring under it, so I hired a guy (not a remediator) willing to sand it down (into a bag) to be able to refinish the floor. I just had to dispose of the sanded waste. Fair deal. it was about 125 sq ft worth.
Mine does to. That's what I was planning to do after I've taken up the subfloor and two layers of tile (fml) I didn't know how much I would need to have scraped off or if they could sand it right away.
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Mine does to. That's what I was planning to do after I've taken up the subfloor and two layers of tile (fml) I didn't know how much I would need to have scraped off or if they could sand it right away.
My guy didn't require any to come off first - but you may not find a contractor willing to take the job like I did. If you can't find one, you could rent one of these (basically what he used) from HD and do it yourself:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Clarke-American-Sanders-Drum-Floor-Sander-07012A/309005831
Just hope you're skilled enough to stop when you get to bare wood!
side note: this past summer I replaced a kitchen floor that had 5!!! layers of flooring on it. I ripped up 4 layers leaving the last that likely contained asbestos, securing/patching it a bit and tiling on top of it.
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side note: this past summer I replaced a kitchen floor that had 5!!! layers of flooring on it. I ripped up 4 layers leaving the last that likely contained asbestos, securing/patching it a bit and tiling on top of it.
Holy crap. I thought what I was doing was tough.
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Somewhat. I can't afford abatement as I've got a wedding to pay for in a year, loans, and a mortgage. I have a N100 respirator so it's not like I'm sucking in all the fibers but since I started taking up the tiles before stumbling onto an article saying that black tar like tile adhesives in old houses generally contain asbestos I'm trying to decide my next course of action.
Ah, did you get a quote?
edit: Holy smokes, I just did a cursory search, and it is extremely expensive...
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Ah, did you get a quote?
Just ran a rough estimate basing it off what my cousin and friend were given for their places.
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Thanks for the advice. That seems like a good coat effective course of action.
As far as difficulty removing the adhesive so far using boiling water on a rag has been decent at getting it up. What have you used? I read mineral spirits but that's some rough smell to put around the kitchen
And the cancer issue with asbestos is only sustained exposure over time. A one time exposure with safety precautions taken should not be a health issue.
Otherwise, everyone in Val-des-Sources, formerly known as Asbestos, Quebec may already be dieing.
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I had ugly 1920s square vinyl tile things in my basement. I never had it tested, but I assumed it was asbestos .. I just put new vinyl squares over it. I bet the owner of the house in 50 years will make the same decision. Let em be.
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Somewhat. I can't afford abatement as I've got a wedding to pay for in a year, loans, and a mortgage. I have a N100 respirator so it's not like I'm sucking in all the fibers but since I started taking up the tiles before stumbling onto an article saying that black tar like tile adhesives in old houses generally contain asbestos I'm trying to decide my next course of action.
Is this in the basement? Roughly what year was it put in? Lots of people put roofing tar as the adhesive.
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Is this in the basement? Roughly what year was it put in? Lots of people put roofing tar as the adhesive.
Kitchen, pantry and hallway. Honestly the more research I do the more I'm convinced the tile is asbestos. Gotta make sure I'm more cautious going forward.
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Well, mine had original wood flooring under it, so I hired a guy (not a remediator) willing to sand it down (into a bag) to be able to refinish the floor. I just had to dispose of the sanded waste. Fair deal. it was about 125 sq ft worth.
You hired a guy to mechanically sand asbestos mastic in your residence?
Did you properly dispose of the waste or just throw it out with the garbage?
I’ve seen contractors lose their business based on less than this.
Homeowners can conduct certain regulated asbestos activities, but as soon as you employee someone to do the work OSHA kicks in, and laws were broken.
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Did you properly dispose of the waste or just throw it out with the garbage?
Yes, took the bag to an approved facility for asbestos disposal. Already mentioned that if you've been following the thread...
Homeowners can conduct certain regulated asbestos activities, but as soon as you employee someone to do the work OSHA kicks in, and laws were broken.
Shh. I also speed sometimes too.
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I just had to dispose of the sanded waste.
Rocky—I have been following this thread of all your wrongdoings.
Where above does this say you took it to an approved facility...I missed that part.
You do whatever the hell you want, but you may want to put the brakes on advice that could get others in trouble. Just a thought.
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Rocky—I have been following this thread of all your wrongdoings.
Where above does this say you took it to an approved facility...I missed that part.
You do whatever the hell you want, but you may want to put the brakes on advice that could get others in trouble. Just a thought.
I think Rocky felt that the implication in this paragraph was that he had done it and disposed of it properly.
...their own remediation and take the waste to an appropriate facility as long as you package it properly (usually 2x 6mil bags).
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Guys, who let Ned Flanders in the thread?
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I think Rocky felt that the implication in this paragraph was that he had done it and disposed of it properly.
That’s why I asked.
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You do whatever the hell you want, but you may want to put the brakes on advice that could get others in trouble. Just a thought.
Hah. I'm not telling anybody what to do. And trouble/risk is up to those making the decisions. It's perfectly fair for you to point out legal implications.
Certainly in this particular case the best/easiest is to slap something over the mastic and forget about it. The next best/most costly option is to have it remediated properly so you can finish it how you want, there are several options after that, and I have taken some of those in life.
I also have been clear that I'm certainly not that scared of asbestos - you just always need to be conscious of your decisions about handling substances that may contain it.
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Cool—it’s not a matter if your “scared” of asbestos or not.
What you are failing to understand is that what you did and what your contractor did are fineable offenses.
No notifications, no appropriate license, no fees, wrong equipment and techniques, homeowner knowingly putting contractor in danger, etc.
I hope you stay friends with that guy because I have seen homeowners sue contractors and vice versa in this exact scenario. It’s been done for decades.
And if that’s the case, you will both lose.
But, you seem to have a better handle on this than me.....since your not scared of it.
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No notifications, no appropriate license, no fees, wrong equipment and techniques, homeowner knowingly putting contractor in danger, etc.
You're making a lot of incorrect assumptions. But OK. Sorry I've offended your sensibility.
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Am I? Well, you’ve admitted to two violations already...and based upon using a handyman instead of a licensed abatement contractor (or in your words ‘remediator’) I’m pretty confident in what I’m talking about.
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Am I?
You are. And I'm also very confident you know what you're talking about. Perhaps you could offer productive suggestions to the DIY solutions!
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Ok—here’s one.
1. Don’t have your buddy use a sander to remove asbestos mastic from your house. It could come back to bite you on the ass.
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Abestos was the wonder material that would fireproof buildings and homes, and lead in paint was ubiquitous until the latter half of the 20th century. Today we know how toxic these substances are and should be mitigated if not entirely removed from older structures. Now we are at the beginning of a solar panel boom. About a third of the homes in my development here in New Jersey have solar panels. I myself have nothing against them as they do reduce energy costs but they are still far too expensive and are not aesthetically pleasing for my taste. Perhaps in the near future they will have solar siding and shingles at affordable prices. They are sold as one way to protect the environment and fight climate change just as asbestos was sold as a way to fireproof your home or business. In 25 to 30 years those panels will need to be replaced and disposed. Most panels today are made with toxic heavy metals and I can see homeowners who were saving money on energy costs spend some of that that on disposal costs. Green energy is not really that green if you are really interested protecting the environment. Just be aware that what is sold today as improving and protecting ones home and environment could be tomorrow's asbestos.
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Abestos was the wonder material that would fireproof buildings and homes, and lead in paint was ubiquitous until the latter half of the 20th century. Today we know how toxic these substances are and should be mitigated if not entirely removed from older structures. Now we are at the beginning of a solar panel boom. About a third of the homes in my development here in New Jersey have solar panels. I myself have nothing against them as they do reduce energy costs but they are still far too expensive and are not aesthetically pleasing for my taste. Perhaps in the near future they will have solar siding and shingles at affordable prices. They are sold as one way to protect the environment and fight climate change just as asbestos was sold as a way to fireproof your home or business. In 25 to 30 years those panels will need to be replaced and disposed. Most panels today are made with toxic heavy metals and I can see homeowners who were saving money on energy costs spend some of that that on disposal costs. Green energy is not really that green if you are really interested protecting the environment. Just be aware that what is sold today as improving and protecting ones home and environment could be tomorrow's asbestos.
What's your point? Soapbox against green energy? This is a DIY construction thread, nobody brought up solar panels and your point didnt have anything to do with the potential of Installation or removal of them. Environmental testing is far more advanced today than it was years ago, it will be better in years to come, new products won't always be "it's going to be another asbestos"
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Abestos was the wonder material that would fireproof buildings and homes, and lead in paint was ubiquitous until the latter half of the 20th century. Today we know how toxic these substances are and should be mitigated if not entirely removed from older structures. Now we are at the beginning of a solar panel boom. About a third of the homes in my development here in New Jersey have solar panels. I myself have nothing against them as they do reduce energy costs but they are still far too expensive and are not aesthetically pleasing for my taste. Perhaps in the near future they will have solar siding and shingles at affordable prices. They are sold as one way to protect the environment and fight climate change just as asbestos was sold as a way to fireproof your home or business. In 25 to 30 years those panels will need to be replaced and disposed. Most panels today are made with toxic heavy metals and I can see homeowners who were saving money on energy costs spend some of that that on disposal costs. Green energy is not really that green if you are really interested protecting the environment. Just be aware that what is sold today as improving and protecting ones home and environment could be tomorrow's asbestos.
Cool story, bro. All of those solar panels don't go in the trash, they get taken apart and the important stuff is reclaimed. Just like we do with electronics.
Green energy is much better than the alternative. Anyone telling you otherwise should be asked where they get their cash from. Batteries and solar panels being dirty... as well as "windmills kill birds" are all lies propagated by folks who are financially invested in the fossil fuel industry.
As always, follow the money.
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OK I have a question.
In our new house (built in the mid-90s), every room was painted except a small bathroom which had wallpaper. We were going to remove the wallpaper and paint instead. First layer came off easy. Underneath the first layer was the original wallpaper. It took some work, but that layer came off as well.
But now it looks like we have a layer of lining to deal with, and underneath is drywall but without the paper??? IDK, but it wasn't what we were expecting.
My thought is that we could prime the wall with the lining and then paint. Can I do this with a latex primer? Would I need to get an oil based one?
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OK I have a question.
In our new house (built in the mid-90s), every room was painted except a small bathroom which had wallpaper. We were going to remove the wallpaper and paint instead. First layer came off easy. Underneath the first layer was the original wallpaper. It took some work, but that layer came off as well.
But now it looks like we have a layer of lining to deal with, and underneath is drywall but without the paper??? IDK, but it wasn't what we were expecting.
My thought is that we could prime the wall with the lining and then paint. Can I do this with a latex primer? Would I need to get an oil based one?
Oil based would be best, but I’ve tried Zinzzer Gardz with moderate success. It’s worth a shot before going oil based with the smell.
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Thank you. But painting over the lining paper can be done right? Just as long as it is primed.
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Thank you. But painting over the lining paper can be done right? Just as long as it is primed.
Oh yeah, you can paint over wallpaper now as well, haven’t tried it, but yeah.
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OK thanks. We decided not to paint over this due to the texture but that may have been easiest.
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Stop by a paint store. Not a big box paint department. They will set you up with what you need.
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Benjamin Moore go Superpaint or enamel 👍🏻
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Oil based would be best, but I’ve tried Zinzzer Gardz with moderate success. It’s worth a shot before going oil based with the smell.
Retire, just want to give you a shout out about this advice. Used the Zinzzer Gardz and then painted over it a week later. It worked real well and looks great. I am not very good at this stuff and frankly I am amazed I did this and looks as good as it does!
So thank you!
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Retire, just want to give you a shout out about this advice. Used the Zinzzer Gardz and then painted over it a week later. It worked real well and looks great. I am not very good at this stuff and frankly I am amazed I did this and looks as good as it does!
So thank you!
Awesome to hear!
Most DIY stuff you just gotta try. I was not handy leaving MU, at all. I drunkenly put a golf club through our senior year apartment with and robmufan‘s dad had to come fix it.
Since then I’ve been able to completely remodel bathrooms, laundry rooms and my basement.
Thank you YouTube.
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Anybody ever build a bar? It doesn’t seem that hard to do…
I’m talking an 8’ straight front bar with no plumbing. The sink and appliances will be in the back bar which will just be regular base cabinets.
I just finished renovating basement where I did all the demo (removed a wall) and framing myself so that has my confidence up. Waiting for drywall so starting to think about the fun stuff now.
Any tips/advice appreciated.
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Just took off old bathroom wall tile that's embedded in roughly 3+ inches of concrete not to mention that razor sharp mesh they use to hold it all together. Who is the idiot that came up with that being a thing? I mean 4 hours with an angle grinder, two chisels, and a small sledge hammer but I got a tiny section done.
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Just took off old bathroom wall tile that's embedded in roughly 3+ inches of concrete not to mention that razor sharp mesh they use to hold it all together. Who is the idiot that came up with that being a thing? I mean 4 hours with an angle grinder, two chisels, and a small sledge hammer but I got a tiny section done.
I've done that before - it was rough. I recommend you add a bunch of real good PPE, a real sledge, a crowbar and a couple pry bars to the mix. Secret is to find the stud, pop the nails that are holding the wire mesh to the stud and let gravity take the wall down (tile and substrate still attached to the wire mesh). And if your house is constructed in the same era as mine (late 20s) - just wait until you get to the floor....thats a whole other learning session.
After doing it once, I would never do it again. Definitely a job I would pay for.
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I've done that before - it was rough. I recommend you add a bunch of real good PPE, a real sledge, a crowbar and a couple pry bars to the mix. Secret is to find the stud, pop the nails that are holding the wire mesh to the stud and let gravity take the wall down (tile and substrate still attached to the wire mesh). And if your house is constructed in the same era as mine (late 20s) - just wait until you get to the floor....thats a whole other learning session.
After doing it once, I would never do it again. Definitely a job I would pay for.
my pry bar broke last time I used it but probably gonna need one. Mine is 1922, I took off the top layer of floor tile, saw the original stuff underneath, and could see how deep the concrete was from where the tub was, said "f*ck that we're tiling over it" and my fiancé thankfully agreed.
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my pry bar broke last time I used it but probably gonna need one. Mine is 1922, I took off the top layer of floor tile, saw the original stuff underneath, and could see how deep the concrete was from where the tub was, said "f*ck that we're tiling over it" and my fiancé thankfully agreed.
Get yourself a 20# demo hammer from the Home Depot, you'll be done in hours instead of days.
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Thank you. But painting over the lining paper can be done right? Just as long as it is primed.
Brother Fluff:
When we bought our home in 1994, the entryway was covered with wallpaper. It was hideous. The estimate to remove it, since it was glued on, was $10,000 to remove it and then repair the drywall. So our painter painted over it and it looks great. Could never tell it was wallpaper unless you really fingered the wall in a way few people do.
Latex was used on our walls to paint them.
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Awesome to hear!
Most DIY stuff you just gotta try. I was not handy leaving MU, at all. I drunkenly put a golf club through our senior year apartment with and robmufan‘s dad had to come fix it.
Since then I’ve been able to completely remodel bathrooms, laundry rooms and my basement.
Thank you YouTube.
I would like to put it out there that I got the first layer of spackle in there, the old man just cleaned it up a bit...
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Most DIY stuff you just gotta try. I was not handy leaving MU, at all. I drunkenly put a golf club through our senior year apartment with and robmufan‘s dad had to come fix it.
Since then I’ve been able to completely remodel bathrooms, laundry rooms and my basement.
Thank you YouTube.
Thanks to YouTube and generally being game to try things out, I'm passable at most home improvement stuff. As I think I mentioned previously in this thread I avoid major electrical work because the cost of a mistake (i.e., death) is high enough that I'm not willing to risk it. But, I absolutely suck at patching drywall. I'm terrible. No matter how hard I try, I can't make it look smooth. It's unbelievably frustrating.
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Thanks to YouTube and generally being game to try things out, I'm passable at most home improvement stuff. As I think I mentioned previously in this thread I avoid major electrical work because the cost of a mistake (i.e., death) is high enough that I'm not willing to risk it. But, I absolutely suck at patching drywall. I'm terrible. No matter how hard I try, I can't make it look smooth. It's unbelievably frustrating.
I'm solid when it's fresh, like actually going over drywall. But skim coating a popcorn ceiling and some old walls that must have either had tile or been scored for something else has been much harder to get smooth. Decent at patch work, not a pro but get the job done.
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Brother Fluff:
When we bought our home in 1994, the entryway was covered with wallpaper. It was hideous. The estimate to remove it, since it was glued on, was $10,000 to remove it and then repair the drywall. So our painter painted over it and it looks great. Could never tell it was wallpaper unless you really fingered the wall in a way few people do.
Latex was used on our walls to paint them.
Thank you. My question was from over nine months ago and the project has long been successfully completed though! :)
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Thank you. My question was from over nine months ago and the project has long been successfully completed though! :)
Brother Fluff:
Your welcome. Sometimes it takes awhile for the word to get down here in Florida. And, then, sometimes we miss things!
Glad your project went well and I trust your house looks great!!!!
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Anybody ever build a bar? It doesn’t seem that hard to do…
I’m talking an 8’ straight front bar with no plumbing. The sink and appliances will be in the back bar which will just be regular base cabinets.
I just finished renovating basement where I did all the demo (removed a wall) and framing myself so that has my confidence up. Waiting for drywall so starting to think about the fun stuff now.
Any tips/advice appreciated.
I just built an outdoor bar for my patio. As with other suggestions noted in this thread, youtube was key. I'm sure an indoor bar would be more difficult to get the finishes right. However, the basic construction should be similar and completely doable for myself as a novice.
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Spent a month of weekends redoing my siding. My neighbor put in a high efficiency window that proceeded to melt my siding this past weekend. Apparently this is a legit issue because the E windows are designed to reflect the light but so a slight refraction can occur and has been known to cause house fires, melted siding, and other damage.
Anyways, be on the look out for your neighbors trying to be efficient!
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Spent a month of weekends redoing my siding. My neighbor put in a high efficiency window that proceeded to melt my siding this past weekend. Apparently this is a legit issue because the E windows are designed to reflect the light but so a slight refraction can occur and has been known to cause house fires, melted siding, and other damage.
Anyways, be on the look out for your neighbors trying to be efficient!
I assume you'll retaliate with lasers!
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I assume you'll retaliate with lasers!
Just thinking I'll put a mirror along the side.
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I assume you'll retaliate with lasers!
The Jewish Space model works the best from what I hear.